Modern clothing, stresses on the style of comfortable, soft, light and casual flexibility. As the "skeleton of clothing", interlining is an indispensable accessory of clothing. Its reasonable cooperation with fabric can not only fully reflect the design idea of the clothing designer, but also achieve good wearing effect.
Warp knitting fusible interlining is a kind of liner, which means that the warp knitted cloth is used as the base cloth, and the interlining for clothing is made by coating methods such as powder point, slurry point and double point. Warp knitted fusible interlining was widely used in Europe at first, among which, the famous European interlining manufacturers such as KUFNER, HANSEL, LAINIERE DE PICARDIE, Etc. Have rich varieties, advanced technology and quality.
Production process of warp knitting fusible interlining.
The process of warp knitting lining is short compared with woven lining, especially for pure cotton and polyester cotton shirt lining. The general production process is,warp knitted grey cloth -shrinkage (or fluffing ) - dyeing - stretch setting -coating -inspection packaging. The width of the products is generally divided into 90cm, 122cm and 150cm. The color is mainly in the natural color, pure white, black and gray, and the color of women's clothing lining is more.
Classification of warp knitted interlining
Warp knitting without weft insertion
It is made of polyester filament as warp yarn (single comb). It has no weft yarn. It has large weft elasticity and thin fabric. It is mainly used for fabrics with large elasticity in warp and weft, such as Dupont Lycra, clothing parts with large range of motion and clothing with low requirement for adhesive strength. It is coated by micro powder point method, and the coating amount is relatively small.
Full width weft insertion of warp knitting
One is fluffing weft lining, which is made of viscose yarn. After fluffing, the base fabric feels soft and plump. Because of the use of powder point coating, it has poor elasticity, easy foaming, difficult to control the heat shrinkage and shrinkage, and the fabric is not widely adaptable, so it is no longer popular. However, some fluffing double comb weft lining varieties with soft handle use double point coating, which overcomes the shortcomings of powder point coating and expands the adaptability of the fabric, it is widely used in many medium thickness outerwear and uniform; the other is the weft lining with polyester low elastic yarn. Generally, single section knitting is more than double section and multi section knitting process is more complicated, and the variety is still less. Low elastic yarn weft lining is the mainstream warp knitted fusible lining, which is widely used. Powder point coating has the advantages of simple process, low cost and poor elastic handle; slurry point coating is mainly used for women's clothing with light texture and soft handfeel, as well as clothing with small part lining and low adhesion requirements; double point coating has better effect and wider application range, and the better one is to use thermosetting polyurethane (PUR) as primer, copolyamide (PA) is selected for flour, with good handfeel, strong adhesion, dry cleaning resistance, no glue penetration, high relative coating cost, suitable for middle and high-grade varieties.
Characteristics of warp knitted interlining
The structure of warp knitted fabric used for processing interlining is simple, and its structure is mostly warp interlaced and weft inserted in the weft direction. Hook knitting structure makes it light, soft, elastic and other characteristics, especially when it is used as clothing materials, it has the characteristics of comfortable wearing, good air release and moisture permeability, randomness and shape retention.
Warp knitted interlining has the advantages of no desizing, decrement and resin finishing, short process, low cost, not need formaldehyde, less pollution and environmental protection, but the waste water produced during dyeing needs to be treated and discharged, so warp knitted interlining can be called Environmental protection interlining.
The warp yarn of the warp knitted fabric with fusible lining is polyester filament or viscose yarn, and the weft yarn is polyester low elastic yarn or viscose yarn. The warp direction is flat and has good drapability. The weft direction has good elasticity, soft handfeeling and strong randomness, so it is suitable for elastic fabrics.
Due to the excellent characteristics of warp knitted fabric, the styles of interlining processed by warp knitted fabric are varied, which can meet the needs of different fabrics with different textures and styles from light to heavy. It fully meets the various requirements of various fabrics and clothing for interlining and is widely used.
In a word, it is not easy to produce high quality and stable quality seriation warp knitted interlining, but due to the simple process and excellent characteristics, warp knitted interlining is gradually becoming the mainstream of interlining market.
